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Dennis Bryant's Answer:
For the majority of 'pond-fishing' spinnerbait applications there are two
basic fundamentals to keep in mind:
1. Smaller is better!
2. Slower is best!
Down-size your current spinnerbait to no larger than a 1/4 oz. size; 1/8 oz.
is the best choice for smaller ponds (less than 10 surface acres).
Maintain a retrieval rate only fast enough to keep the blade revolving, and
the lure running between 6" to 8" below the surface, rod-tip at about a 45
degree angle to the water.
Personally; I prefer using a very-slightly modified (pinched-down
blade-shaft), "ZAP Lures" 'Custom-Style' 1/8 oz. long-arm spinnerbait; on
any/all smaller, or heavily fished waters. I prefer a single #3 deep-cupped
Colorado blade, on a thin-wire (.027 Stainless spring-steel) frame, and
dressed-up using a very-bulky, 120-tail, 'living-rubber' skirt.
If you use any titanium shaft spinnerbait, the standard .029 'ti'-shaft is
more than sufficiently limber; but is impossible to modify by pinching the
blade-arm any closer to the hook for a slower retrieval.

I've also had an awful lot of luck fishing small ponds, using a very-small (2
inch), single-treble, undressed (plain-no-skirt), cream colored (or ivory if
you can't find cream) popper, fished so darned slow that it even makes me
nervous watching it work!
Make your 1st (SOFT) cast to a point just beyond your intended target.
Let the lure sit untouched until the last remaining semblance of a ripple has
totally left the pond. (long enough to sit down, open a can of soda, and take
two or three LONG cool sips)
ONLY THEN; TWITCH the popper 2 quick shakes, making it remain in place, or
move only a VERY LITTLE bit. Then let it sit again, until every ripple has
left the pond.
Repeat this, at least two more times with the same long delays as the first
The Bass can't stand it! And the 'heart-attack' type surface-strikes it
brings, are more fun than winning the state lottery!
Charles Stuart's Answer:
Spinnerbaits have a variety of uses in any body of water, however in a pond
with heavy weed growth, I tend to look for some different approaches to catch

1/ Topwater rats, frogs and large worms or lizards. Fish these with heavy
line over the top of the weeds, stopping for 30 or more seconds before slowly
moving the lure again. Always pause near openings in the weeds. When the fish
strikes it may miss the bait the first time, so cast back and stop at the
same area. When the fish takes the lure, DO NOT STRIKE. Wait until you feel
the fish swimming with the lure , then set the hook with a single upward

2/ Texas Rigging. I like this approach in heavy cover. Flip the edges first
with a worm or crawfish imitation, slowly lowering the rod tip as the bait
enters the water to slow down the presentation. Once you have fished the
edges, move into the weeds and "flip the pockets" or holes in the weeds.
Strong line and a good hook set is needed.
Leo Watson's Answer:
First thing to consider would be the how far below the surface the top of the
submergent vegetation is. Once this is established you can determine what
weight spinnerbait will be best suited for your needs. The next consideration
would be blade style and size. For fishing vegetation I like to use a willow
leaf style blade. It comes through the weeds easier and fouls less. As far as
blade size goes I let the size of the primary baitfish determine my blade
size. In clear water with clear skies I use nickel colored blades. In clear
water with cloudy skies as a rule of thumb I use the gold colored blades. In
respect to what retrieve to use, I start out just trying to tick the top of
the grass with the spinnerbait. You will have to experiment with various
retrieves and let the fish tell you what they like best. In reference to
another bait to try in that situation I would rely on one of my fa! vorite
baits the floating worm. For that lure try the different colors available and
for the technique try to imitate a snake coming through the water. As always
if you have any more questions just forward them through this fine web site.

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